Mt. Hood via Old Chute

06/02/13

Mt. Hood via Old Chute

A trip report for Mount Hood South Climb
Posted by Chris Berry
Road Issues: Road is great
Trail Condition: Easy to navigate
Bugs: Not an issue
Snow Level: Starts at 5,000 ft

The South Climb is in great condition! The grooming machines have broken up the hard snow along the trail paralleling the lift line making crampons unnecessary until the top of the chair. The early morning snow (started up at 5am) was firm and stable the rest of the way.
The huge chunks of overhanging hard rime ice along the couloirs near the summit had not yet started to pelt climbers with debris. We chose the 'Old Chute' route due to the wide open, low angle slope. The best way to access the Old Chute was to walk the spine towards Hogsback, but before reaching the bergschrund, traverse west to the bottom of the Old Chute. A few parties were also ascending via the 'Pearly Gates,' but we had heard that there may have been a lot of hard ice along that route and that the Old Chute was in great condition. We decided to leave some gear at the car and aim for the quicker and safer route.
The ridgeline was narrow as usual, but left plenty of room to avoid the cornices that had developed on the north face.
The snow had softened enough by 9am that descending from below Crater Rock without crampons was no problem. Overall, always a fun climb on a bluebird day!

Teams heading up both the Pearly Gates and Old Chute

Looking back at the bergschrund above the traverse to the Old Chute

High traffic on the Old Chute

The well trampled summit and the boot pack along the ridgeline

Comments (1)

gorgeous photos Chris- just incredible.